Argentine primers

Has anyone tried these Small Pistol Primers from Argentina?    https://republicammunition.com/product/servicios-small-pistol-primers/
Appears to have a distributor in Lima, Ohio.

I have used 8,100 SA primer, but only in revolvers, I have a couple of FTF on first strike.  Everything being equal they work okay.

I have been using the SA primers for a while now. I shoot them in striker fired pistols. When I first started loading them with my Dillon 550, I used the same pressure seating them that I use with WSP primers. I got a lot of duds on the first try. I have since used much, much more pressure to seat them and they are pretty reliable in my striker fired Sig pistols. The "legs" of the anvil on the SA primers don't extend below the primer cup, like they do on current American primers. I believe that is the issue that requires the SA primers to be seated with so much greater force and makes current American primers more sensitive.

Dunno anything about the rifle world, but can't think of a single example where a primer should not be fully seated in the primer pocket when reloading for pistols.

Making sure they are fully seated gives them the best chance of ignition when struck by the firing pin.

If you use a LNL, this ad on helps.

DA/SA wrote:Dunno anything about the rifle world, but can't think of a single example where a primer should not be fully seated in the primer pocket when reloading for pistols.

Making sure they are fully seated gives them the best chance of ignition when struck by the firing pin.

Did anyone say that primers shouldn't be fully seated? I think that the SA primers are ok for everyday plinking and bullseye practice, but I'd use American primers for matches.

BE Mike wrote:Did anyone say that primers shouldn't be fully seated? 

Not, but I brought it up because I have seen in other primer related threads where people have mentioned seating "just below flush" or to a certain measured depth, rather than just seating them fully.

DA/SA wrote:

BE Mike wrote:Did anyone say that primers shouldn't be fully seated? 

Not, but I brought it up because I have seen in other primer related threads where people have mentioned seating "just below flush" or to a certain measured depth, rather than just seating them fully.

Ok, I get it. There are some reloading presses that let people adjust the primer seating depth. I've never used one or even seen one, but I agree whole heartedly with you.

Good place to order from

https://normashooting.com/product/limited-supply-new-small-pistol-primers-made-in-argentina-qty-1000/

I've been reloading/handloading for 51 years and have been an ATF Class 6 Dealer (Manufacturer of Ammunition) for the last 15 years.  

Primers should be seated to the full depth the primer pocket allows which is usually slightly below flush. Not seating them to the full depth of the primer pocket means some firing pin energy will be bled off driving the primer deeper until it fully seats.  In such a scenario, the full energy of the firing pin is not used to ignite the primer which can result in failures-to-fire or inconsistent ignition.

Slight variations in primer pocket depth (even in cases made by the same manufacturer in the same lot) is why benchrest rifle shooters often go to the trouble of uniforming their primer pockets with a reamer so they are exactly uniform in diameter and depth.  The theory is this will promote uniform ignition of the primer which can lower the standard deviation between shots and reduce vertical shot stringing at longer ranges.  In a perfect world, the theory would seem to have merit but there are so many other variables involved that it's impossible to eliminate them to prove the theory.  Short answer: seat the primers with equal pressure to the full depth of the primer pocket and have a nice day.

dannyd93140 wrote:Good place to order from

normashooting

Yep....agreed.

I ordered 1,000 from Norma and tried them.   

Zero trouble thus far after 500 rds in .45acp (spp range pickup brass / 1911), .38 Super (new Starline / 1911) and 9mm (range pickup brass / P320 X-Five Legion).    



I've ordered more from them since.   Now...I'd like to add some more spp .45acp cases (can't believe I'm saying that, lol).   Maybe it is time for a good catch net that I'll carry along on range days.

Tell me more about that

rich.tullo wrote:Tell me more about that

Look at how the primer punch works. Probably most LnL presses won't benefit from the Penny or dime or whatever. Make sure the little spring in the punch assy is not coil binding.
You might also want to check clearance between shell plate and sub plate. If its much more than 3 or 4 thousands the press may benefit from a shim for the drive hub. Helps with the snappy shell plate issue and primer seat troubles. I have one .45acp shell plate that won't anywhere near flat. Caused all kinds of trouble, a machinist buddy fixed it for me.

In my experience Hornady LnL progressive suffers from the occasional tolerance stack issues, some work great some not so much. 

This is a long thread but its very helpful.
 https://www.ar15.com/forums/Armory/How-to-tune-the-Hornady-Lock-N-Load-AP-progressive-press/42-414607/?page=1

rich.tullo wrote:Tell me more about that

The tech from Hornady told to use a penny because it's spark resistance and it helps seat the primer deeper. So, far its worked for 120,802 rounds.  Your mileage may very.