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Smith & Wesson 617-6 strikes

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Post by mostly22lately 2/19/2024, 8:50 pm

I have a S&W 617-6.

I do not experience any failures-to-fire, and most of the time I am using CCI SV.

However, compared to any of my other rimfire pistols or rifles, the empty cases from the 617 look like they have MUCH lighter strikes.

In fact, on many of them, I'm surprised they ignited.

Similar rim detents from other firearms would likely not have fired, at least, I don't think so.  
This isn't very scientific, I know.

I have no experience with other rimfire revolvers, so, I have no idea if this situation is 'normal' or not.

Opinions solicited, including "just shoot it" and "OCD much?"

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Post by Tripscape 2/19/2024, 10:03 pm

Is the screw in.your grip screwed in? That's the screw that tensions mainspring which pushes on the hammer. If not then give that screw few turns and it will provide more tension for good strikes. If it is all the way in then please take off your grips and take a pic. Looking for arch n the mainspring under that screw. Many second hand guns have the screw cut. Will let you know what to do if thats your case.

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Post by John Dervis 2/19/2024, 10:19 pm

Every gun is a bit different.  My basic rule is that if it’s working fine, it’s fine.  I have an inline muzzle loader that when you pull the trigger and watch the hammer fall, you would swear it has a broken spring it is so weak.  BUT it fires every time.  I gave up being concerned about it. 

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Post by mostly22lately 2/19/2024, 10:56 pm

Tripscape wrote:Is the screw in.your grip screwed in? That's the screw that tensions mainspring which pushes on the hammer. If not then give that screw few turns and it will provide more tension for good strikes. If it is all the way in then please take off your grips and take a pic. Looking for arch n the mainspring under that screw. Many second hand guns have the screw cut. Will let you know what to do if thats your case.
I changed grips and saw that screw then.  It did seem like there was appropriate tension on it however I didn't have a reference, so, I didn't touch it.

The gun does fire fine and I presumed also the previous owner(s) had made some action adjustments such that the trigger is as smooth as it is.

I think I am not going to go look for trouble ... while there isn't any to find.  But now I have at least a bit of a reference and for that I am grateful.

One other interesting and unrelated aside is the amount of force I have to put on the extractor with some ammo versus other ammo.
This surprised me.  Much to learn about wheelguns!

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Post by Dcforman 2/20/2024, 12:54 am

If your cylinder is dirty, is can prevent the rounds from seating all the way. When the firing pin strikes the case, it can then move the case forward, absorbing the impact,  and sometimes cause misfires. If you do eventually have problems, clean the cylinder well before you do anything else. I use a .25 or .243 caliber brush for this.

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Post by BE Mike 2/20/2024, 9:35 am

I have used a finishing reamer on all of my S&W .22 LR caliber revolvers. It makes insertion and extraction a lot easier.
https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/bore-barrel-tools/reamers-cutters/22-rimfire-rifle-auto-pistol-revolver-reamers/
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Post by mostly22lately 2/20/2024, 10:19 am

BE Mike wrote:I have used a finishing reamer on all of my S&W .22 LR caliber revolvers. It makes insertion and extraction a lot easier.
Thanks; may I assume this doesn't affect the accuracy?

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Post by BE Mike 2/20/2024, 11:11 am

mostly22lately wrote:
BE Mike wrote:I have used a finishing reamer on all of my S&W .22 LR caliber revolvers. It makes insertion and extraction a lot easier.
Thanks; may I assume this doesn't affect the accuracy?
I haven't done any before and after machine rest testing at 50 yards. I can only say that the accuracy seems to be the same.
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Post by Allgoodhits 2/20/2024, 2:52 pm

A suggestion. Before going to the reamer approach, consider taking a nylon .22 bore brush and put a small amount of 0000 steel wool around it. Use a short handle with the brush and insert, while turning it, into each charge hole of the cylinder. All you want to do is polish the chambers slightly. I would suggest trying this first. My experience is that the reamer approach is mostly needed when someone has dry fired on an empty charge hole and the firing pin, since it is a rimfire, may have peened the edge of the charge hole creating a snag point to hold onto the brass, especially after it has been fired. Last, I found that Norma TAC .22 ammo is the easiest to extract from a revo cylinder after firing. HV ammo and dirty cylinder can be a challenge as well.

I have a dedicated short handle .22 rifle bore brush that I keep handy, just to clean out the charge holes during a shooting event. It only takes a few seconds to clean the charge holes after every 6-10 cylinders of fire. Cleanliness of ammo matters too.
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Post by Wobbley 2/20/2024, 4:23 pm

Also remember that a reamer for a revolver is different than for a rifled barrel.  This is because one for a rifled barrel has to ream they”leade”.  The one for a revolver has to ream the cylinder throat which is based on bullet diameter.
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Post by BE Mike 2/21/2024, 9:02 am

I will only add that the .22 revolvers that I reamed did not have any damage to the charging holes from firing pin strikes and the reamer purchased from Brownells was for .22 revolvers. S&W revolvers are notorious for having tight charging holes.
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Post by shooterer 2/29/2024, 1:57 pm

My vote is for the Strain Screw also.


Last edited by shooterer on 3/1/2024, 7:09 am; edited 2 times in total

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Post by Tripscape 2/29/2024, 3:21 pm

I don't think that enshake would be a problem on the 22lr.  Even on the big calibers stretching of the frame is not so severe as to cause light strikes.  Turn that mainspring straining screw about quarter to half turn and you will be all good.

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