case priming SDB for 45ACP

I'm a relatively new Dillon SDB user.  I like the press but one drawback is no ability to view priming unless one pulls the pin and case out of station 2.  I dislike not being able to see the primer.

So, the question.  Have any of you run your SDB without the priming system?  I'd rather prime off machine so that I can see what is going on.  Pulling the deprime pin is a no brainer, but I'm not certain about pulling the priming system off the machine. Or should it be left on the machine and empty of primers?  Any thoughts or experiences on this subject are appreciated.  Thanks.  bob

I don't have a a SDB but rather a Hornady LNL. On the LNL you also can't visibly see the primer feeding into the priming shuttle nor can you see it go into the brass, in fact I would be surprised if there is any progressive which you can do so. I can however remove each piece of brass to inspect, the LNL utilizes a spring to hold all cases in place so its a bit easier than removing pins. 

The LNL has good feeling of the priming operation. I can tell when there is a primer missing and can tell when a primer has seat properly. 

Priming off the press would defeat the point of a progressive because it would also force you to seat off the press, I suppose you could possibly remove the depriming pin from the resizing die and still get away with it but I'd feel a little uneasy about sizing a primed case. 

What about just visually inspecting each finished case after it comes off the press. If you have an issue you could pull the bullet.

With the SDB, you can feel is there is no primer at the station when you push the handle up to prime.  If there is no primer, you will get kind of a click when the primer arm pushes up into the primer pocket.

Having said that, you could prime ahead of time and just simply not load any primers in the primer tube and as you said, remove the decapping pin on the decap/sizer die  It would add that one step to the process.  Sizing a primed case is no big deal.

I had a SDB a long time ago and was never really happy with it.  You might try running one case at a time through it until you get used to the operation.  It would add time to what you are doing but it would give you a chance to see the operation at each station.

I rarely use the priming system on my SDB. When it works well it occasionally flips a primer. When it doesn't work it is really frustrating. It's been back to Dillon once. It is better but not perfect. Moving the handles slowly and smoothly helps. Federal seems to work better than WIN or CCI. I've stoned the edges of the primer cup and the bottom of the shell plate because it seemed to catch sometimes. I've graphite lubed all the sliding parts because it seemed to hang up. I still can't figure out what's happening.

I don't find hand priming to be that big of a challenge. One of these days I'll get a 650 or 1050, but I only have a small corner of the basement, so the compact size works for me.

Or save some money and get a Hornady LNL AP, great press for the money. I just ordered a second press so I could have one dedicated to each primer size. The priming system on my first press has worked great since day one. The second one I ordered this week from Optics Plant for $375 with free shipping, got a 10% coupon code. I looked really hard at the Dillons when I decided to get a second press but I just can't justify it when my LNL works so good and I know how to use it.

Steve:  Mine does just that, maybe 2 times per 100. Once in a while it also won't drop a primer into the cup.  Please tell me do you put the Dillon priming system in a storage box or do you leave it on press, but empty? Other than the primer feed issue I do like the Dillon SDB.  Depriming on a different press and priming with a bench primer has to be less frustrating than this.   Thanks.  bob

bob finger wrote:Steve:  Mine does just that, maybe 2 times per 100. Once in a while it also won't drop a primer into the cup.  Please tell me do you put the Dillon priming system in a storage box or do you leave it on press, but empty? Other than the primer feed issue I do like the Dillon SDB.  Depriming on a different press and priming with a bench primer has to be less frustrating than this.   Thanks.  bob

Then do that.  That's how I generally load rifle ammo anyway.  Size, deprime, trim, on a separate setup.  Prime is optional separate or machine.  Charge and load on the machine. 

Makes for more work, but if it gives a better result go for it.

I haven't had a priming system on my reloaders (SDB and 550b) for several years now.
On accounta:
I loaded and primed on a SDB for over 12 years - no problems.  
Then I got 625 45acp revolver and the same ammo that was 100% reliable in the wad gun was giving me me about 1 in 10 light strike misfires in the stock 625. -- I began hand priming for the revolver & the misfires ended. - Soon I was hand priming it all (w/ RCBS round tray hand prime tool).

I have a decent system worked out for brass processing - inc's SS pin wet tumbling, using STM tarnish inhibitor rinse & the above. -- do 1900± cases at a time. -- Sure is smooth reloading w/ brass already sized, primed & belled.

Forgot to say I size-deprime & bell at the same time. Then tumble.

bob finger wrote:Steve:  Mine does just that, maybe 2 times per 100. Once in a while it also won't drop a primer into the cup.  Please tell me do you put the Dillon priming system in a storage box or do you leave it on press, but empty? Other than the primer feed issue I do like the Dillon SDB.  Depriming on a different press and priming with a bench primer has to be less frustrating than this.   Thanks.  bob

I remove the priming system from the press. Three allen bolts are all that hold it on.

A couple of times a year I set up the single stage Rock Chucker to deprime and size, then use a hand primer.