Revolver and double action technique in rapid fire

Hi everyone,

Revolvers are my favorite type of gun and I'm going to start shooting them exclusively in matches.  I also enjoy shooting double action and will do that in the timed and rapid fire stages.  My question is in regards the the double action pull.

Generally, I begin the double action pull when the sights are aligned on the target.

A second option particularly for rapid fire could be to begin the pull when lowering the gun to the target and then pausing or staging the trigger, align sights, then fire.  

I'll try out both options.  But, I'm wondering how the masters that have shot double actions did it (or do it)?  

Thanks,
Dave

In time you will be pulling the trigger as the sights are coming on the target.  As long as you watch the front sight as the gun recoils, it should be no problem.  I shoot DA in rapid only.  First shot is cocked, then DA for the next 4.  I do OK.   I have seen folks shoot SA in rapid.   

The last match I shot that required a revolver I shot my Best score ever with a K 38. It was indoors 50 feet.  Part of a 4 gun match.  12 shooters, 30 rounds each of rimfire, center fire, Revolver and 45.   I took top place.  

enjoy the match
David

Thank you David.  It sounds like you have an active club with 12 guys participating with a revolver.

We don't have that many shooters wanting to shoot a revolver match after the 2700 but there is usually enough of us to talk someone into calling the line. The OP asked about technique for shooting DA for RF. I personally have no desire to shoot DA and spend my time during recovery thumbing the hammer back. There is a lot of time to get 5 shots off in 10 seconds. I think pulling a 2.5 lb trigger beats the heck out of 5 or 6 in DA. This of course is my opinion and you know what they say about opinions. If I was to shoot DA I would start pulling the trigger back the instant it reset. 


SA results with 25-2

Super Dave wrote:Hi everyone,

Revolvers are my favorite type of gun and I'm going to start shooting them exclusively in matches.  I also enjoy shooting double action and will do that in the timed and rapid fire stages.  My question is in regards the the double action pull.

Generally, I begin the double action pull when the sights are aligned on the target.

A second option particularly for rapid fire could be to begin the pull when lowering the gun to the target and then pausing or staging the trigger, align sights, then fire.  

I'll try out both options.  But, I'm wondering how the masters that have shot double actions did it (or do it)?  

Thanks,
Dave

A friend refers to competitive shooting as squeezing the balloon. He's got a point. 

I've been where you are, and I've been on the other side (Sustained better than slow). Add some sustained fire practice back in. But really I think that the things is that you are having an issue with maintaining uninterrupted trigger control and taking shots in sustained fire when you are rushing. 

A couple of years ago, I found that my pulse was increasing by 10-15 beats per minute when the sustained fire commands started. My solution was to practice relaxing during the commands. That went a bit too far, so then I had to find the RIGHT amount of tension.

S&W M28 Target grips.  When firing double action, the trigger finger should just make contact with the wood grip, just before the shot breaks.
This helps to steady the gun.  

There  is no staging. Pulling of the trigger in double action is a continues motion. Slower or faster so the sights are aligned a hair before the shot fires.

A tuned action helps.  I shoot the 44 mag M29 with full power loads the same way, but using 2 hands.

Generally, I begin the double action pull when the sights are aligned on the target.

If you start pulling the trigger after the sights are aligned, they will almost certainly not be aligned by the time you finish. You should dry fire and adjust your grip so the sights are aligned when the hammer falls.  Ideally I can pull straight through in double action, but occasionally something goes wrong and I'll have to stage the trigger while I realign the sights

The standard trigger works best. The target trigger is to wide to wrap the finger around.  The trigger finger comes in contact with the wood grip, just before the hammer drops.   

I went to the range today and tried the single action technique mentioned above (cocking during the recovery phase).  It was much easier than I expected.  I see the light.  Thanks for the help.
Dave

Maybe you need a gun with an old King cockeyed hammer, seems like they had single action bulleye in mind when they made those.

I have a Colt with a copy of the King's Double-Cockeyed hammer. Between the rasp texture and the huge surface area I can see why they were popular.

A cockeyed model is pictured at http://www.hallowellco.com/King's-cockeyed-hammer.jpg

Yep, my preference is too shoot all single action.  I regularly dry fire at my TV using rapid fire cadence.  I also have started to like reflex sights like Vortex Venom instead of Ultradot which adds less weight to my 625.

The Vortex Crossfire is pretty small also and balances nice on a wheel gun. Shoot good too.

Another vote for single action and thumbing it in sustained fire.

(Distinguished Revolver #100, plus a few pigs and a buck with a Colt Python.)

LenV wrote:I personally have no desire to shoot DA and spend my time during recovery thumbing the hammer back.

How easy/difficult is it to maintain or recover grip during/after thumbing the hammer back?
I've been starting to practice with my Chiappa Rhino. I have no previous revolver experience, so can't compare grip/trigger/hammer to anything else. But I find that I'm losing grip and often have to reposition the revolver in my hand with my other hand after cocking it. I'm ordering two more sets of grips for it to see if they help (large with finger grooves from the Raging Rhino, and the new "competition" grips).
Beside grip type and style, what can I look for to maintain my grip and cock the gun?
Regardless of the suitability of the pistol, I'm planning on using it as the CF gun in a match this spring. Last year I didn't even own a centerfire gun and placed third in CF Sport Pistol using a borrowed Hammerli in .32 long. This year I want to use all my own guns. 
Besides SA technique, I need to figure out why I shoot so damn low all the time with the Rhino and PPQ Q5. As it is with both, it's my trigger technique obviously. Have to start being more serious at the range and work to improve concentrating with .38. It's just shooting .357 one-handed is so much fun...

I find it easy to maintain control of the pistol. I use two fingers to grip the revolver and use the little finger to maintain control. I must admit I have certain advantages (large hand) but anyone can get the size of grips that allow them to use the same technique. By tucking the finger under the grip it allows you to hold it without it rolling up in your hand thus requiring a re-grip. A firm three finger grip will do the same for you. Some grips are much easier to maintain control then others. A lot of checkering and minimum amount of taper in the grip help. I should mention that if you do tuck your finger under the grip be sure to still grip firmly with the other two. The recoil on the side of your pinky will remind you when you don't.

LenV wrote:I find it easy to maintain control of the pistol. I use two fingers to grip the revolver and use the little finger to maintain control. I must admit I have certain advantages (large hand) but anyone can get the size of grips that allow them to use the same technique. By tucking the finger under the grip it allows you to hold it without it rolling up in your hand thus requiring a re-grip. A firm three finger grip will do the same for you. Some grips are much easier to maintain control then others. A lot of checkering and minimum amount of taper in the grip help. I should mention that if you do tuck your finger under the grip be sure to still grip firmly with the other two. The recoil on the side of your pinky will remind you when you don't.

 For a couple of seconds there I thought that was a Ruger Bearcat ....

edit - when I first looked at your post Len it had a pic...

I took it off. I didn't want to scare anyone away from shooting SA. You don't really need giant hands to shoot but it makes it easier.

Damn, that's a giant hand.  Good Lord.  You must do the OJ move when trying on store bought gloves.

Bearcat, right??

I thought it was an old 22/32 target.

Another vote for single action in sustained fire, been using a 25-2 for a few years now.  One nice thing about a revolver is being able to dry fire practice timed and rapid.

Beautiful model 25  .

I think I should try cocking the hammer for timed and rapid.

I started shooting handgun in 1987.  I was taught to shoot a revolver double action from the start.  I shoot single action for slow fire and sometimes timed.  I never really tried rapid fire single action.  

I shoot bowling pins with either hand or both hands DA.  

Not a top shooter,  I just have fun.

Can we take a poll here?  Would I be the only one shooting rapid DA?

David

I am also very interested in shooting a revolver in timed and rapid. While I understand the mechanics of re-cocking the pistol while shooting one-handed, a short video from someone who knows the correct technique for precision shooting would be extremely helpful. Observing the correct way is much better than reading about it.

Personally I shoot sustained fire DA. The trigger is always moving. As others have said, and I agree pull straight through. I also prefer the narrow serrated trigger.