Lead Removal in .45acp 1911

Sa-tevp wrote:Sometimes you run across useful containers for soaking barrels in while you clean and lube the rest of a 1911...




That's way too many martinis to get a barrel cleaning vesel.

Bill

Jon Eulette wrote: Zero hbwc have leaded my 38's to the high heavens. I will never use those bullets again.
Jon

Asa Yam wrote:

jglenn21 wrote:a bit unusual to see leading in a 45 unless the barrel throat is not correctly done.

Not true!

Alloy hardness affects melting point greatly.  Melting point usually falls as alloying elements are added.

Firing the round is a primary cause of leading:

• Powder gas temperatures are around or above the melting point of most materials, and;
  
• Chamber pressures are well above normal.  21,000 PSI for normal loads, 23,000 for +P. 
  

Materials which are solid at room temperature behave differently at elevated temperatures.  Change the pressure, and behaviors change more.  Keep in mind that even though peak temperatures and times are measured in fractions of a millisecond, it doesn't take much vaporized lead per shot to result in fouling buildup.  Cures to reducing or eliminating the buildup:

• Change bullets to a softer type.  Remember, lower alloy content may mean a higher melting point;
  
• Add an antifouling compound to the bullet or powder.  Older types of these compounds were added to the powder or primer.  They worked by reducing the ability of a fouling material to adhere to the barrel;
  
• Add a physical barrier between the lead and the powder.  Reduce the temperature of the lead by adding a barrier between it and the powder gas.  Copper jackets, gas checks, and other barriers (i.e., plastic, paper, or cardboard wads; plastic jackets) are examples;
  
• Add chemicals to reduce the ability of the powder to melt the lead.  Traditional means were adding waxes to the powder, modern types include wrapping powder charges in plastic jackets.  There is some thought that molybdenum disulfide ("moly") and tungsten disulfide ("Danzac") act as flame temperature reducers;
  
• Change to a cooler burning power.  Lower burn temperature = less melting of bullet, and;
  
• Reduce chamber pressure  Change from a fast burning, high temperature powder to a longer burning one with a lower flame temperature.
  

Having removed lead fouling from a pistol barrel, I cannot endorse using a Lewis lead remover.  Even after multiple passes, lead traces remain in the bore.  Electrochemical removal is far more effective - try it.  Clean the bore with a Lewis, then use a Foul-Out unit (or homemade equivalent).  The amount of material removed by an electrochemical system is an eye opener.  NOTE:  There are reports that aggressive use of an electrochemical system may result in pitted bores.  To avoid this, clean the barrel thoroughly using conventional cleaners, then electrochemically clean no more than twice.  Neutralize all remaining traces of the electrochemical solution, then lightly oil the bore to prevent rust.

jim lock wrote:What's the process using "chore boy"??
Thanks in advance
Jim

Rick wrote:Just curious as to what your opinion is to using the old Hydergen Peroxide/Vinegar solution method to help remove lead from a barrel... I've been told by others that it may cause damage to the steel itself, but I do not see any evidence of that.

Any thoughts on this?

30calfun wrote:It sounds like the electrolyte method might be useful, though I am not sure how to construct one of these devices myself, any help here is appreciated.