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What to look for in a new 1911?

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What to look for in a new 1911? Empty What to look for in a new 1911?

Post by igolfat8 Mon Dec 02, 2013 12:38 pm

Being a newbie to the 1911 platform, what do you suggest one looks for in a new 1911 in terms of fit that [may] result in better accuracy, not taking into account the nut holding it. I read where you want the barrel tight to the bushing and slide tight to frame. How do you do this? By feel? 

I have Glocks and when I grab the slide I can rationally rock it on the frame rails from side to side as well as lift it up and down front to rear (breach to muzzle). I can stick my finger in the end of the barrel and it moves in all directions. No need to scold me for owing tupper guns ;( Is this how I would examine a 1911? Am I over analyzing this?

Another OT question, what is the difference between a ball gun and a wad gun?

igolfat8

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Post by Schaumannk Mon Dec 02, 2013 1:20 pm

Like everything else, the proof is in the test target, or sandbagging the gun yourself with good loads.

Are you considering buying a new factory 1911 and setting it up for bullseye or would you prefer a used or new gun, already set up?


Difference between wad and ball gun, a wad gun will have a much lighter spring so it will feed wadcutter ammo with a much lighter kick.

Wad guns usually are set up with a red dot, and a ball gun, is intended for EIC matches, so it will have iron sights, and be CMP legal.

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Post by igolfat8 Mon Dec 02, 2013 2:46 pm

I am shopping for my first 1911. Pretty much narrowed it down to a new Springfield RO to set up for target shooting. I may do some bowling pin shooting with it as well next year?

If I go to the LGS and they have several new new ROs to choose from I wanted to know what should I look for between one RO and the next. I can't afford a custom gun and my price range is $1K max.

I will be installing a FF-III red dot so I guess this will be a wad gun, eh? What spring weight do I need for wad ammo in the 185g - 200g range loaded for light target loads? Most of my shooting is at a short 30' indoor range.

Would you think the Springer stock barrel would function better with lead, plated or jacketed bullets?

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Post by Schaumannk Mon Dec 02, 2013 4:13 pm

igolfat8 wrote:I am shopping for my first 1911. Pretty much narrowed it down to a new Springfield RO to set up for target shooting. I may do some bowling pin shooting with it as well next year?

If I go to the LGS and they have several new new ROs to choose from I wanted to know what should I look for between one RO and the next. I can't afford a custom gun and my price range is $1K max.

I will be installing a FF-III red dot so I guess this will be a wad gun, eh? What spring weight do I need for wad ammo in the 185g - 200g range loaded for light target loads? Most of my shooting is at a short 30' indoor range.

Would you think the Springer stock barrel would function better with lead, plated or jacketed bullets?
It really depends on how you mount the red dot.  Mounted directly to the slide, you will probably need somewhere from a 9-12 pound spring.   If you use a frame mount, you can usually get good functioning with a 14-15 pound spring.   As your gun breaks in, you may be able to increase the spring weight a pound or two, as there will be some loosening of the slide to frame fit.   
Most barrels shoot jacketed ammo better than lead, but there are a few exceptions.   If you are only going out to thirty feet,  I would  shoot the cheapest bullets you can get to function reliably.   The fifty yard line, is where your gun, and your ammo, makes a difference.

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Post by DavidR Mon Dec 02, 2013 4:29 pm

Id look for the one with the least movement between the frame and slide, check it with the gun locked all the way back and locked forward, also the one with the best feeling trigger action when you pull the trigger. the SA barrels shoot well so your good with that, basically just add a rail for the dot and your set. 12-13 lb spring with a dot should be good.
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