Walther GSP Ejector Problem

First topic message reminder :

This is a Walther GSP in .32 S&W Long. I purchased it new just a few years ago. In that time, I have broken the ejector 3 times now. Two times, I was just shooting the pistol when it either stopped ejecting the casings, or on the most recent occurrence, I saw the broken piece on the bench. The part is not that expensive, but since I cannot replace it myself, sending it in for repair is a major hassle. the third time happened when trying to remove a jammed round, so that one was on me.

I shot 1.4 grains of Bullseye Powder primarily, but used 1.8 grains for the 50 yard targets for a while. I did not own a chronograph at the time, so no idea what velocity the 1.8 gr BE was pushing, but the typical 1.4 BE's were between 600 and 650 fps. I was warned that I was probable shooting too hot of a load. With that in mind, I stopped loading the 1.8 gr BE and just dealt with 50 yds with the 1.4 BE Loads. When the Covid shortages hit and I could not find Bullseye, I switched to Titegroup at 1.5 - 1.6 grains. Have not chronographed it yet with the Titegroup, but probably will after I get the repaired gun back.

Has anyone else experienced a broken ejector? If so, any idea why it broke? For those who haven't, do my loads or velocities sound right? I asked Earl and he is reluctant to suggest a load or a velocity, only saying that the spent shell casing should only eject 1-2 feet. Otherwise, the load is too hot and will break the ejector.

Where in the country are you located? This is not a difficult part, and tool steels are readily available to make and heat treat.

r_zerr wrote:Where in the country are you located? This is not a difficult part, and tool steels are readily available to make and heat treat.

He's in Amarillo.

Having watched this over the past three years, I'm thinking something is out of spec on the upper, but that's just my opinion.

It could be a hardness issue. 
Looking through my notes yesterday, I had some roll pins that were not heat treated properly at Walther. Caused an alibi on the line when the extractor pin broke. 
I agree that something may also be out of spec on the upper.

I wouldn't even begin to know what to look for. In the old Server Software days, I would look at a system that is functioning properly and then look at the one that wasn't and compare it setting by setting until I found what was wrong. Buying another $2500 pistol seems a bit much for this process.

I was told the Firing Pin was heated treated for strength. Makes sense that the extractor would be too. But the ejector is just a stamped piece of sheet metal. If I could dope one side with JB Weld to thicken it a little, I might be willing to try.

Walther barrels can vary quite a bit ; l know of 312 - 314 range perhaps there's others?

 The 308 is not a Walther but an unknown custom job. Dave looked it over, it isnt one of his.

You might be surprised if you slug yours.

I can do that. 

The way I was taught was to melt enough lead and pour it into a case that has not been resized since it was last fired. Tap out the formed slug with a bullet puller. Drop it into the chamber end of the barrel and with a brass rod and mallet, tap it through the barrel.

The problem is that I deprime my cases before I clean them and all my brass has been cleaned while waiting for the GSP to come back from Earl's Repair. All my unloaded cases either have an inconvenient hole in the bottom, or they have a new primer in the bottom and I don't care to see what would happen if I poured melted lead on top of that new primer.

I slugged my barrel this evening. The awkward part was that my micrometer measures in mm, so I had to convert. Of course, twisting the bullet lightly within the micrometer revealed varying results. I'm sure that was due to the lands and groves. The diameter ranged from .308" to .314". I'm not 100% sure but if I were asked to commit, I'd say it is a standard 0.314" barrel.

Easy way is to find suitable lead pieces to use for slugging a barrel is to buy split shot sinkers from a fishing tackle store.  Go with a caliper t find the right size.

Wobbley wrote:Easy way is to find suitable lead pieces to use for slugging a barrel is to buy split shot sinkers from a fishing tackle store.  Go with a caliper t find the right size.

 Egg shape sinkers with the hole in the middle work very well also.
Stan

Update: I broke another Ejector, number 5. I had been shooting light loads, about 1.3-1.4 grains of Accurate #2 since the last repair (500 rounds or more). Found a box with 18 rounds loaded with about 1.6 grains. Decided to shoot them and empty the box. I made it thru 11 rounds before the ejector broke. I still think there is something wrong with the upper receiver, but Earl at Earl's Repair won't even consider it.

mbtimmons wrote:This is a Walther GSP in .32 S&W Long. I purchased it new just a few years ago. In that time, I have broken the ejector 3 times now. Two times, I was just shooting the pistol when it either stopped ejecting the casings, or on the most recent occurrence, I saw the broken piece on the bench. The part is not that expensive, but since I cannot replace it myself, sending it in for repair is a major hassle. the third time happened when trying to remove a jammed round, so that one was on me.

I shot 1.4 grains of Bullseye Powder primarily, but used 1.8 grains for the 50 yard targets for a while. I did not own a chronograph at the time, so no idea what velocity the 1.8 gr BE was pushing, but the typical 1.4 BE's were between 600 and 650 fps. I was warned that I was probable shooting too hot of a load. With that in mind, I stopped loading the 1.8 gr BE and just dealt with 50 yds with the 1.4 BE Loads. When the Covid shortages hit and I could not find Bullseye, I switched to Titegroup at 1.5 - 1.6 grains. Have not chronographed it yet with the Titegroup, but probably will after I get the repaired gun back.

Has anyone else experienced a broken ejector? If so, any idea why it broke? For those who haven't, do my loads or velocities sound right? I asked Earl and he is reluctant to suggest a load or a velocity, only saying that the spent shell casing should only eject 1-2 feet. Otherwise, the load is too hot and will break the ejector.

I'm sorry to hear about the ejector problem. Using stronger loads, like 1.8 grains of Bullseye Powder, might have broken it. Follow Earl's advice of keeping ejection short (1-2 feet) by using lighter loads after the repair.

Whitel, perhaps it would have been better to have read all the follow-on posts before you posted this. The first ejector broke while I was shooting heavier loads. Since then, I have used significantly lighter loads. Earl has recommended that shooters limit themselves to Lapua Factory ammo. I tried to point out that Lapua rates their ammo at a significantly higher velocity than my hand loads attain. So if Lapua ammo would not break the ejector, how could my lighter loads do so?

Do you know of a load that will keep the brass from ejecting more than 1-2'? I asked Earl, and he did not provide one.