Hard Primers in your DSR loads

The DSR revolver I shoot the best is not liking Remington primers.  No problem shooting single action but I shoot the 25 yard line double action.  Gun is a box stock 586 with a factory action job.   I have been getting a snap every few cylinders.  One snap is to much for a match.  Federal primers have a good reputation from guys with tuned DA guns so I brought 1000 primers home yesterday.

I don't think you can go wrong with Federals. I ran across the same problem with CCI.

Federal, all the way

Do you mean really "DR" for Distinguished Revolver Program?

What is your S for?

Learned that DA revolvers liked Federal primers back in the 80s with PPC and NRA Action revolvers.  Killed a Lee Auto Prime in the 70s with hard CCI primers.  Those CCIs aren't to be completely excluded though.  When you need a hot fire to light a large volume case full of powders like H110 and 296 you need CCI magnum primers.  Just have to make sure you use the right priming tool to seat them.  Seems I  read somewhere in recent years that CCIs were not quite as hard as they once were.  They are still very hard to seat with a hand primer.  I use the priming tool on the single stage press for them.

Does this gun have a light main spring?  My S&W revolvers that have the Wolff light main spring all fire every type of primer that I put in them. My mainstay is Remington SP for all my 38's and 357's  and have had zero problems with them firing.

Curious as to why they don't work in your 586 ? The only difference between mine and yours  I can think of is all my S&W revolvers are the old ones that have the firing pin attached to the hammer. Your 586 if I remember correctly has a frame mounted firing pin. Can't see that making a huge difference but I guess it can. Is it possible that the firing pin is worn down and shorter than the original length? Is your revolver headspaced properly?


Virgil

Take ten S&W revolvers, and measure firing pin protusion, you will likely get ten different dimensions, with some being short... One of the first operations when tuning a revolver is to measure and adjust protusion. .055/.060 is good for a competition revolver.. Ihave seen many in the .040s from the factory. Hammer mounted  pins should be smooth and pass thru the firing pin bushing with zero drag  or resistance. There should be adequate clearance between the rebound block surfaces and the hammer at the position of ignition..Cylinder end shake should be at a minimum.
Jerry

Don't know about other 586s.  Mine is completely factory stock with the factory action job.   While I've only owned it 20 years it was most likely about 20 years old when I bought it.   It has historically shot everything I've ever put in it flawlessly.    It will once again be fine this week with the Federal primers.

Ran 100 rounds with Federal primers through my 586 yesterday.  It is once again the 100% gun it has always been.

Your welcome!

Dang James!  Never did ask for help.  Simply explained the problem and what my fix was going to be and why.  Offer me some information I didn't already have before you start slapping yourself on the back!