Best Trigger componets

Curious with so many options what  our elite  gunsmiths use to build their masterpieces, triggers, sears, disconnecters, hammers, is there a brand that is best or do you use different brands depending on the part ?

My triggers are worked on by only two people.  KC Crawford and Doug Hall.  KC's roll triggers are specially made and I have no idea what he uses and I doubt he would say. 

Doug Hall does not build guns, he only does triggers.  I believe he uses Cylinder and Slide parts.  What makes Doug so unique is he has a laptop with a fixture that dry fires the gun and maps the trigger.  He can give a quantifiable measurement of roll for a trigger and duplicate it on another gun.  He can save the graph and use it to compare it to your gun later on to see if the sear and hammer hooks still have the same relationship.  The Curtis gun I purchased several months ago was graphed by Doug early on when I was shooting 880's with it.  When my scores began to drop we found that the sear and hammer were poor quality and the trigger pull had changed significantly.  He is replacing the parts and making it just like it was before.

I read the TR sear was based on a EGW part, but that was back when it first came out.

How can one reach Doug Hall, sounds like a great opportunity to set up the trigger on the conversion to match my wad gun?

KC has them made special, and they are great. Long roll is not for me and will have him shorten it up a little. 

My 22's have Cylinder and slide parts and they are great, they are for crisp triggers. They also make a longer roll kit but i am not sure on that. 

Can not go wrong with either KC, Cylinder, and Slide or EGW parts all know people that stand behind their product in my experience.

The feature most important to me, is the sear length.. The Chuck Warner TR  Component Series addresses this along with RC and the deck dimensions of the hammer..If that sear is short... it's the dog chasing it's tail story..It's very easy to over stone the sear, shortening it..

Cylinder and slide makes good parts, but I do believe the E2 stuff is it's equal and a bit less $$..

One thing that I don't care for now is that many top brands are using a notch/groove in the hammer full cock. Forces sear into it; I think for liability reasons.
If you like crisp trigger than no big deal, but for roll trigger job it's not your friend.
Jon

Where is the groove?  Pics?

No pic
It's at the rear of the notch. You can feel with thumb nail. C&S, Baer use them. Others too.
Jon

I always set them up and re grind every thing anyway, because they are rarely square.. That often eliminates the groove....Good frame and good parts often go together with little fret.. Yesterday, the hook off set for that conversion was substantial.. That's slow tedious hand work..

The groove was most likely a small undercut???   Most likely a method of getting adequate (for liability reasons) sear engagement.

The notch doesn't provide any more engagement depth but provides a notch that holds the sear partially captive. In otherwirds the sear nose digs into it; less chance of hammer follow down. Sear has to positively deflect hammer for sear to move off notch. Kinda like a speed bump.
Jon

I may be wrong here, but I believe the notch or groove is from the manufacturing process.

Wobbley wrote:Where is the groove?  Pics?

On the Powers sear jig tips thread Jerry has a pic of "Hammer hooks being checked on the comparator"  you can just barely see a very little of that grove left by the hooks, and I mean very little.  It's about the width of one of the lines.

- Dave

I haven't seen the notch plus having a pile of hammers I purchased at Perry quite a few years ago I haven't needed any.
 Undercutting a corner in machining is quite common if it's required that the two legs be exact to the origin at what ever angle intended. An endmill will wear most at the outside corners and will begin to produce a slight radius in the corner. More so a grinder. The hammer hooks are short so that slight radius will become a problem Often parts that need to be ground having been machined then hardened will have the corner undercut. Precision angle plates almost always have the corner undercut and often  have a hole drilled in the corner that becomes a semi-circle after machining and grinding. Done simply because that corner does not effect the use but a radius in the corner will.
 I suspect that the undercut is for that same purpose and may be be larger than intended.