Please help with scope creep

Got a revolver with weaver base and rings, and a long eye relief scope.  All in very deep blue high polished. Looks great, but since all parts are polished I am having scope creep that is rotational to the right.  Even clamped very tight the scope rotates slightly but noticeably to the right after few reloads.  

I know there are many methods to tighten up the play, but which would be best for high polish to high polish? I am thinking blue Loctite, is that the best solution?  Note - not looking to remove or alter any material on scope or rings. 

Thanks!

One wrap of very thin paper  around the scope where the rings contact it.

Thin like the page of a phone book used to be.

Interesting.  I figured painters tape is a no go since adhesive part actually provides a thin layer of lubrication.  
Paper only - makes sense as paper is a mild abrasive. Why thin though?  I would think thinner the paper the less abrasiveness?

I have always used aluminum foil under my scopes and have never had one to slip or roll. Paper will soak up oil or water so I wouldn't use it.

Will the foil mar surfaces? How and how much to use?

I used electrical tape, just one thin strip inside the lower half of the ring is usually enough.

Tripscape wrote:Will the foil mar surfaces? How and how much to use?

I have never had a problem with the foil marring the finish on a glossy scope or semi-gloss finish.
What I have seen on a semi-gloss finish is some of the foil rub off leaving a light silver flaking which can be wiped off with a oil cloth. The semi-gloss finish being rough acks like sandpaper.
I cut the foil so it will incircle the whole tube, so you get equal pressure all the way around the scope tube.

I've always used a small piece of the tan masking tape on the inside of the rings. Works for me.

Powdered rosin in the rings is non marring and will keep the scope in place.

Shim plastic, different thicknesses get the five pack

Thank you all. Will try your suggestions in coming 2 weeks.

I've always put a drop or two of blue Loctite on the rings since i was using it on the fasteners anyway.

Here is the setup. I need to fully disassemble to assess curvature of the rings. Maybe they are not perfectly concentrical, in which case I will shim with suggested paper, aluminum or plastic. Revolver is 19-5, but I will shoot 38 special only, no magnums. Previous owner did the same, but barely used it. Gun is as new with almost no indications of use.

Kp321 wrote:Powdered rosin in the rings is non marring and will keep the scope in place.

+1

Tripscape wrote:Here is the setup. I need to fully disassemble to assess curvature of the rings. Maybe they are not perfectly concentrical, in which case I will shim with suggested paper, aluminum or plastic. Revolver is 19-5, but I will shoot 38 special only, no magnums. Previous owner did the same, but barely used it. Gun is as new with almost no indications of use.

I have used the small rubber bands from kid's dental bands, natural rubber and non-marring!

I have used the small rubber bands from kid's dental bands, natural rubber and non-marring!

THANK YOU!  That makes all the sense to try first. It happens that my kids just had braces and had to wear those thin rubber bands to pull bottom and top teeth together.   I will stack several to make a wider ring. They are perfect diameter and very sticky. Your comment made my light bulb glow.

Reporting back:
Upon removing the rings found that there was tons of oil all over the inside rings and scope. No idea why.

Paper, foil and rubber bands were a no-go as I could stil manually rotate the scope after tightened. Do not have rosin to try.

Blue loctite was applied and feels very tight. Will try next week at the range.

Ps. Centering a reticle was a major headache with this ring type.

In your pictures if I'm seeing right the rings look like the older Weaver style rings that hook on one side and has two screws to draw the rings down when tightened.
I would be looking for a different set of rings.

Tripscape wrote:Reporting back:
Upon removing the rings found that there was tons of oil all over the inside rings and scope. No idea why.

Paper, foil and rubber bands were a no-go as I could stil manually rotate the scope after tightened. Do not have rosin to try.

Blue loctite was applied and feels very tight. Will try next week at the range.

Ps. Centering a reticle was a major headache with this ring type.

If the rubber bands and proper torque aren't working, then you have an issue with the rings unable to apply the proper friction! 
Are you applying torque in the neighborhood of 18-24 inch pounds to the ring tightening screws?

Machines that have Morse, B&S or other type tapers to hold tapered shank drills or tapered tool holding devices such as a drill chuck applying Talcum Powder to the taper before inserting it will lock the shank and hole so it will not spin. Also makes the 2 hard to separate. Very little is used, clean the taper of oil, dust it with Talc and wipe it off with a clean dry cloth. that is all the talc that is needed!
 Do the same with scope rings, prevents movement but easy to dissemble when required since it will not stick and rings will seperate to remove the scope.

Froneck wrote:Machines that have Morse, B&S or other type tapers to hold tapered shank drills or tapered tool holding devices such as a drill chuck applying Talcum Powder to the taper before inserting it will lock the shank and hole so it will not spin. Also makes the 2 hard to separate. Very little is used, clean the taper of oil, dust it with Talc and wipe it off with a clean dry cloth. that is all the talc that is needed!
 Do the same with scope rings, prevents movement but easy to dissemble when required since it will not stick and rings will seperate to remove the scope.

It's getting harder and harder to find real talcum powder, guess we'd better stock up! I like this idea much better than rosin, tape or aluminum foil.

-TT- wrote:

Froneck wrote:Machines that have Morse, B&S or other type tapers to hold tapered shank drills or tapered tool holding devices such as a drill chuck applying Talcum Powder to the taper before inserting it will lock the shank and hole so it will not spin. Also makes the 2 hard to separate. Very little is used, clean the taper of oil, dust it with Talc and wipe it off with a clean dry cloth. that is all the talc that is needed!
 Do the same with scope rings, prevents movement but easy to dissemble when required since it will not stick and rings will seperate to remove the scope.

It's getting harder and harder to find real talcum powder, guess we'd better stock up! I like this idea much better than rosin, tape or aluminum foil.

If the rubber bands and proper torque don't work and you can't find talc, maybe common blackboard chalk will work for your purpose! 
Just use a file to shave some chalk powder off where needed!

Rodger Barthlow wrote:In your pictures if I'm seeing right the rings look like the older Weaver style rings that hook on one side and has two screws to draw the rings down when tightened.
I would be looking for a different set of rings.

Yes, an older style. Pressure on the top may or certainly is not applied throughout. Bottom is cut very nice though. I applied loctite liberally and will see how it all holds. Thank you all who provided responses!

Loctite requires metal contact to harden. Use on aluminum and stainless steel requires a hardening agent to speed the hardening. When ever I use loctite on anything other than steel I put a drop on a clean steel plate, stir it around like mixing epoxy then applying it to what ever I need the loctite. Scopes and rings are anodized then dyed to get the color desired so loctite may not harden in scope rings. In addition another coating might be applied to get that nice surface finish That's why I have loctite contact steel before use on non steel items.

Is that with all loctite or specific colors? I used blue.