Roll trigger

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Roll trigger

Post by Recurvist22 on 4/15/2017, 3:31 pm

So I'm pretty curious about trying out a Roll Trigger. I've always had the clean glass rod break type and I want to see how I like it. From everything I've read on here, everyone seems to recommend KCs Battle Axe or Teardrop kits, but I really don't want to spend close to $200 to try it out just to possibly not like it. Am I correct in that a basic roll trigger is accomplished by a True Radius sear with no secondary cut and polished like there's no tomorrow, along with some polished and squared hammer hooks that are a little longer than normal I.e. .02 and up? I've done a few trigger jobs in the past that involved all of the standard things like smoothing out the trigger tracks and trigger bow along with the top and bottom of the trigger itself, smoothing the back of the disconnector, cutting the sear angles on an Ed Brown jig and then squaring up the hammer hooks on some gunsmithing stones. This all resulted in a decent enough glass rod type creep free trigger that I enjoyed. Is getting a smooth roll basically just all of that without the secondary cut? Or is it that much more difficult that it's just worth the $200 for KCs kit? I have no doubt it would be worth the money as every review I have seen on it has been fantastic, I just don't know if I'll like the roll or not and I'm trying to test it out a little cheaper. Thanks in advance for everyone's time and input.

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Re: Roll trigger

Post by Froneck on 4/15/2017, 4:03 pm

I had roll triggers on my guns 20 years ago. Been working on them since. A simple way to try it is to use less secondary angle. Simply put the secondary angle is to limit the amount of sear engagement. So shortening the secondary will  increase the amount of primary engagement. But as the sear moves forward in an arc that transition point will want to push the hammer back. That's the reason of a radius sear. However I have drawn it on AutoCad and if you change the primary angle just a small amount that rise can be made very small. Also remember as you cut the sear the engagement angle will also change because the sear is shorter.
 So get a cheap hammer and old sear and make the engagement longer and test it by dry firing. Let the slide slam close to test if it holds before trying it with live ammo. A few times will not hurt anything but don't let the slide slam home often.

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Re: Roll trigger

Post by Ghillieman on 4/15/2017, 5:06 pm

Froneck are you going to bring any of your trigger shoes to Perry this year? I would like to try some out and maybe have you look at my guns and see what would be the best shoe.
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Re: Roll trigger

Post by Recurvist22 on 4/15/2017, 5:36 pm

Ok so basically just a radius sear with a lot of polishing? Or an old one that I can fiddle with the primary angles? By longer do you mean that I would add more shim with my Ed Brown jig? Or less?

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Re: Roll trigger

Post by jglenn21 on 4/15/2017, 6:02 pm

heck just go get yourself the TR jig... easy enough to sell it if you don't like it. Bet you keep it

cut the radius and put a very small relief cut in it and you'll have a short Roll.


Last edited by jglenn21 on 4/16/2017, 7:49 am; edited 1 time in total
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Re: Roll trigger

Post by Froneck on 4/15/2017, 11:14 pm

Froneck are you going to bring any of your trigger shoes to Perry this year? I would like to try some out and maybe have you look at my guns and see what would be the best shoe.

 I do plan to bring a few, seems like every year just before Perry I get involved in so many projects I'm lucky to bring me to Perry. What trigger do you have Dan? Get one and try it, if you don't like it I'll modify it at no charge except $4 for postage. Or if you want a different type you only have to pay the difference in price. If I know the type trigger you have I'll bring a few just for you to Perry so you can try them.

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Re: Roll trigger

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