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1911 parts for new build

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kc.crawford.7
mhayford45
CR10X
James Hensler
SW-52
james r chapman
ASchlem
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Post by ASchlem 9/4/2020, 4:47 pm

First topic message reminder :

Sorry, i'm sure similar topics have 1k post spread around this forum but i can't find a list of components a Current Bullseye Gun Smith would use on there personal 1911 wadgun. I have already decided on a Jem frame and slide, KC's sear/hammer and Kart barrel. But what about all the other pins, trigger, guide rod, ect... Do all the popular smiths in our discipline use the same parts?
ASchlem
ASchlem

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Post by ASchlem 12/1/2020, 2:09 pm

On the home stretch and seen that my new EGW slide stop pin was tapered from end to end. So I made a lapping tool to straighten it out. The silicone carbide slurry cut really good but didn't make a mirror polish. Maybe I will go on Amazon and get some diamond compound.1911 parts for new build - Page 2 20201210
ASchlem
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Post by WesG 12/1/2020, 3:15 pm

I think I'd just put a light crosshatch on it with some 4-600 emery or wet/dry and call it done.

I put a .203 in my SA. It had a little back taper to it. Not enough for me to care, and straightening it out wouldn't have helped much. The 'off' side of the frame was already .202+ and a little rough, so it was gonna be loose one side or the other either way. Bushing the frame didn't seem to be worth the trouble. Maybe if I put a new barrel in it someday. It's still loose with the large pin.

Starting to collect parts for a ground up build. So the SA is a practice piece.

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Post by ASchlem 12/1/2020, 5:37 pm

I did it to maintain even lug contact that was acquired with a Guage pin during barrel fitting. I took a lot of care getting there and didn't want to loose that with a tapered pin. Also the pin was too tight in the frame on the big end. The lapping will keep the pin round. I can't do that with sand paper.
ASchlem
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Post by WesG 12/1/2020, 6:25 pm

I'm not questioning the need to straighten the pin. And lapping, or an external hone, is the only reasonable way to do it.  The hone creates a 'minor' fixturing problem though.

I lapped the slide a little to round it up, 320 SiC, and it dirtied up the oil a couple times on the bushing I ground to fit. A pass with JB and another round of oil got it cleaned up nice.

You've got an aluminum lap, so probably not as likely to have grit embedded in the steel. And at this stage you probably don't need to take even a tenth off of it to smooth it up. Hence a light 'brushing' with 'paper' to clean it up. Even a piece from a grocery bag might do the job.

WesG

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Post by ASchlem 12/1/2020, 8:15 pm

Gottcha. The slide stop pin was .ooo8 off
 .2005 on one end and .2013 on the other. Everything's good now. Put 50 rounds down the pipe this afternoon. I will try to get the ransom rest out soon. Thanks for the advice. I would love to have a Sunnen and some small hole mandrels
ASchlem
ASchlem

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Post by WesG 12/1/2020, 9:46 pm

I have access to one, currently. At least when I'm in CA. Don't use it very often, but it's a handy tool when you really need it. It's on my long list, well behind a cutoff saw and surface grinder of my own. Currently 'borrowing' those when I need them as well.

Used to be able to use the wire EDM too, but it was updated to a different brand and I haven't a clue where to start. But my brother isn't impossible to bribe ...

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Post by DA/SA 12/1/2020, 10:05 pm

You really need an adjustable spindle model if you want to run small hole mandrels.
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