Rust Blueing

Getting near completion of my .22 conversion so I'll be trying Rust Blueing soon, maybe start on a few small parts like the one piece grip safety/main spring housing. From the video I watched by Mark Novak I see him in other videos use boiling water but in the video with Bob from Rustblue.com they use steam. One thing they caution is to not allow water to condense on the part when steaming so it's suggested that the part be preheated to above the Dew Point. If not the blueing will be ruined.
 First which is better Steam or Boiling water? If the part can be boiled in water why worry about condensation?
 Being I have everything needed as Mark suggested in the video including the Carding Wheel from Brownells, Gloves and Ever Clear, stainless steel pot and Distilled water. I also have the long shaft Baldor buffer
 I did get a bottle of the stuff sold at RustBlue.com and from Brownells.
 Being I've never rust blued and a bit confused as to steaming or boiling!
 Also after each boiling/steaming do I card the part prior to applying more solution to darken the blue?

My favorite is Belgian blue which is similar to Mark Lee Express Blue. Here's how I do it:

1. Clean the part in acetone, then rinse with distilled water, then clean with brake cleaner and rinse again. 
2. Boil in distilled water for a few minutes so that it heats up.
3. Apply the solution with cotton swab, patch or brush and return the part to the boiling water. 
4. Boil for another 2-3 min.
5. Card with 0000 steel wool or Brownells carding wheel.
6. Repeat steps 2-5 until you get a nice dark finish. Usually takes about 10 applications or so.
7. Boil for another 30 min or so.
8. Remove from water, dry and then soak overnight in used motor oil. Some recommend using WD40 but I found that motor oil helps create a darker finish.

The key is to keep the part hot when you apply the solution and don't let it cool down. 

The resulting finish is not as durable as hot salts bluing but works for me.

As per Mark Novak in Anvil videos he claims that Rust Bluing if far more durable than Hot Salt Bluing. A better high gloss show piece finish is better with the hot bluing but Rust Bluing will last longer and prevent rust. Ferrous Oxide is more stable than Ferric Oxide so it will last the longest.
 After cold bluing before carding I would oil the part. I seen a video where it was stated that the oil will allow the bluing to continue and it seems that is does because I get a darker blue that way. Also Mark claims that the best way after rust bluing is completed is to put the parts in Kerosene  for a few hours to stop any blueing and remove any water. Then oil it but with non detergent oil not gun oil. Afterwards gun oil is OK.
 So carding after every application of the solution, thanks for the tip!
 I'll report my progress and results.

I've been rust bluing for years and I always spray my warm parts with G96 after the final carding.  I have never had the rust process continuing.
Phil

What is G96??
Mark claims Diesel fuel will work too but is messy. Gasoline also but fumes can ignite. I'm sure other products will work too so that's why I ask what is G96

G96 was recommended in a CZ / Dan Wesson manual as one of three lubricants for their 1911’s. I’d never heard of it till yesterday and now it pops up today. Here it is:

https://g96.com/

https://g96.com/

Looked at the info, thanks I probably will order some G96. However Mark said not to us a gun oil after bluing. He claims that gun oil has an rust removal agent and that Rust Blueing is rust or metal oxidation. Best to use an oil after Kerosene soak that has no chemicals to seal the pores then a gun oil can be used.Though I don't agree with some of Marks machining skills I'm quite impressed with his gun smithing though I doubt he is into BE type guns. At least he don't show any BE accuracy type work (he did tighten-up an old 1911) as some other jokers do on YouTube!
 I seen Mark Rust Blue items as an assembly rather than completely disassemble everything when disassembly is difficult as in the plunger tube and grip screw bushings on a 1911 frame. Then claims Kerosene will remove all water from the boiling process.
 But as I mentioned being a first time rust bluer I'm a dummy in the process and can be impressed by anyone doing something I have no knowledge of! Same as an new shooter is impressed with a BE shooter that shoots below a 2400 in a 2700 match! However I'm careful so as not to accept bad info.

Froneck, I cannot wait to see your conversion when it's done. It's going to look awesome!

Haven't worked on it for a few days, making a shoe for a 2 hole Kimber trigger and some work for an Industrial customer. Get the extractor in and the rest is cosmetic. Yeah it should look good but more important I want it to shoot great! Barrel lock in is very tight, when the screw is removed it's still locked in due to the 5° taper in the locking slot.