Kodiak Mount for 1911 rail

First topic message reminder :

I thought these photos might be helpful for others who are installing a Kodiak mount on their 1911 rail for the first time.  

So, is it sitting flat, and more importantly if so, how does it shoot?

You may want to use a tiny bit of blue loctite on the rail screws once you're comfortable with the new fit. Clean out the thread holes with a q-tip soaked with acetone first.

-TT-, it is sitting perfectly flat.  As to how well it shoots, by the time I got it zeroed in yesterday, the last 10 of my 50 rounds shot like what I'm posting below - but this was with two hands, so it doesn't count.  Starting with my next trip to HRPC I'll spend half my time enjoying myself (both hands) and the other half seeing how well my dry-fire practice is coming along with just one.  I'm sure LenV will tell me how much better the score would have been, had I been zeroing in better, but all I loaded for yesterday was the 50 rounds. 

OK, clean old holes with acetone or similar, and use a drop of blue Loctite.  I'll probably leave it as-is for now, until I get Jon's new rail.

mikemyers wrote:OK, clean old holes with acetone or similar, and use a drop of blue Loctite.  I'll probably leave it as-is for now, until I get Jon's new rail.

Reason I suggest doing it now is that these screws can definitely move. This will a) subtly and frustratingly change your POI at random moments and b) potentially be unsafe, if one or more actually lets go.

Strongly suggest using acetone (or loctite primer if you have it). It chemically prepares the metal, and won't impact the loctite transformation. Some other solvents, especially petroleum-based ones, will degrade the bond.

OK, another reason to go to the hardware shop.

Blue Loctite
Loctite Primer.  (if they have it....   if not, acetone.)

With the four screws holding the rail in place, I'm surprised to read that it can still move.