New to Reloading, Ready to Load

I was recently gifted a Dillon 550B with some additional equipment. The press is setup on my workbench, ready to go, and components are starting to come in the mail. I'm reloading both 9mm and 45ACP & have the right die sets and conversion plates. Other equipment used or coming in the mail include: tumblers, calipers, case lube, powder scale, brass polisher. 

What other pieces of equipment are essential for reloading?

I also have a couple of older reloading books. Is there a reloading manual that has a good amount of information pertaining to 25/50 yard loads commonly used in bullseye?

Are there any specific pieces of equipment that have made the job of reloading much easier (other than another press)?

Any insight would be appreciated. Thanks

I don’t see scales, but might be part of the “other stuff”.

Get the Lee Factory Crimp dies for both/all semi auto calibers, they work well and easy to adjust.

Read through the accurate load data here with the search function and make a couple rounds to try.

Your journey has just begun and it is very enjoyable to most shooters

You might look at this thread (mostly 45 loads) stickied at the top of the Ammunition forum:

Pet Loads of Top Shooters & Loads from the past. (bullseyeforum.net)

This one for 9mm:
9mm loads - 9mm Hardball Loads (bullseyeforum.net)

You need a bullet puller. I have the Dillon roller handle. I also have the InLine Precision "skylight" that really lights up the areas you need to see. Having enough toolhead stands with toolheads helps keep calibers organized. I even keep a separate powder measure for each caliber. I've had a Frankford Arsenal Vibra-Prime for many years. There is a slight learning curve if you use it will Dillon primer tubes, but it fills primer tubes a lot quicker than picking them up one-by-one from a primer tray. Yeah, you need a primer tray and extra primer pick-up tubes (small and large).

Eye protection.

Ammo boxes and labels.

Record book. Keep good records. Invaluable if something goes wrong.  And, coincidentally, valuable when something goes right, too.

Unless you have auto feeding, I like plastic quart containers for dumping a pile of brass and a pile of bullets to have at the ready. This provides “flow”.  Consistent process flow leads to fewer mistakes, easier detection when they occur, and better ammo. It’s not a race, but flow generally means better efficiency. Efficiency = less time = less time to be interrupted = less interruptions = reduce chances of error… 

My experience, careful with the vibra prime. I’ve had a primer flip on it’s way into the tube.

Your brain, and a quiet place with no interruptions.  Preferably no air currents. Interruptions are dangerous.

For the OP, 

No load is garunteed to be accurate in YOUR gun, just because it was accruate in SOMEONE ELSES gun.. 

       IE, that person has for example a custom 5000$ match grade 1911 with a barrel that cost 1,000$ alone to have "ideal" bore and rifling conditions..  Your gun is not going to shoot the same with that persons pet load.  Even if your gun was made by the same people with same equipment and same tooling. 

But the best thing for reloading is a good impact bullet puller.  Learning that your crimp is consistent is key to everything..  nothing less enjoyable then having to pull down a box of rifle cartridges and discoving that some bullets pop out with two soft whacks, and others needing 5 to 8 HARD whacks.

Taper crimp die.
If you are going to use lead bullets, the dillon neck sizer is most likely too small. The lead bullet will be sized down when inserted into a case that has not been expanded enough.
 For .45 ACP , 4.0 to 4.2 g of Bullseye powder behind a (.452") 200 LSWC. Leave 1/32" of the bullet beyond the case mouth and taper crimp to .469-.470. Don't get caught up in OAL as OAL varies with bullet nose profile. Get proficient with the .45 ACP first.
 The 9mm can be a bear due to all the tolerances of bore size, twist rates and chamber dimensions.

If for any reason you get called away in the middle of a loading session, leave the ram up in the tool head. That way you know where you left off. 

Also when you first set everything up, load a dummy round. Take the completed round and see if you can push the bullet into the case. It should not move at all. What your testing for is bullet "set back". One of the worst  thing that can happen due to pressure spikes.